I love me some Patons Kroy. In the days before discovering my LYS, and the beautiful sock yarns to be had there, I flocked to Micheals for all of my yarny needs, and over the years I've grown quite the stash of Patons Kroy self paterning sock yarn.
However, having only found my way to sock knitting in the past few years, I put my Patons to some other, more interesting uses.
Prototypes for a cute self paterning yarn sweater... the neckline still needs working out also kroy is just way too scratchy for baby sweaters. Soooo maybe I'll come back to this one day.
Anyways, lately I love me a pair of Kroy Socks. Since the yarn, which is 75% superwash wool, 25% nylon, is a heavier fingering weight (bordering on sport weight), you should go up a needle size (we've all heard stories of kroy socks knit on US 1s that can stand up on their own. and some people have even knit them themselves). And going up a needle size with socks means coming down in stitch count.
I normall knit a 60 or 64 stitch sock, with fingering weight yarn on US 1 (2.25mm) needles. My Kroy socks I knit with 54 stitches on US 2 (2.75mm) needles. And you know what, besides the fact that self striping yarn knits faster, fewer stitches on bigger needles also makes one hell of a difference.
So below you'll find the pattern/recipe that I use for Kroy socks, it'll always be available here for free. But I also plan on writing up a sock pattern for top down heel flap and gusset socks, properly, and with photos to show exactly what I mean by picking up my stitches and such. That should be available for purchase (probably $2) on Ravelry in the next few weeks.
So here's how I knit my Kroy socks.
2 50g balls of Patons Kroy
US 2 (2.75mm) needles I use 9 inch circs for the cuffs and DPNs from the heel down
Darning needle and scissors for weaving in ends
Cast on 56 (or your desired #, remember, bigger needles=fewer stitches) stitches using a long tail cast on. Choose a colour change point for the first loop in your cast on if you want matchy matchy socks.
Knit in 2 by two ribbing for 2 inches or so, ending at a colour change point.
Knit even for desired leg length, depending on the length of the striping pattern, I like one or two repeats.
To avoid disrupting the striping pattern on the front of the sock, join yarn from other end of ball (or in the first example, I used only the white with black specs sections... this meant for lots of weaving in of ends.
Working over back half of stitches only
Row 1- Purl 2, (knit 1, Slip 1 with yarn in back) repeat until 2 stitches before end of row, knit 2
Row 2- Knit 2, purl to end of row
Row 3- Purl 2, (slip 1 with yarn in back, knit 1) repeat until 2 stitches before end of row, knit 2
Row 4- Knit 2, purl to end of row
Repeat these 4 rows until you have knit the same number of rows as stitches on your needle - ie) I have 56 stitches total, I am working on the back 28, so I need to knit my heel flap 28 rows long. Since this flap has garter ridges on each side, I just knit until I have 14 garter ridges (half of 28).
On the last purl row.... do not purl to end of needle, proceed to heel turn.
Starting with last row of heel flap
Row 1- knit 2, purl to 1 stitch past center point (ie I have 28 stitches, I purl to the 15 stitch), purl 2 together, purl 1, turn.
Row 2- Slip first stitch, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn.
Row 3- Slip first stitch, purl to 1 stitch before turn, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn.
Row 4- Slip first stich, knit to 1 stitch before tutn, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all stitches have been worked. break yarn.
Now, we're going to continue with the main yarn, still attched, starting in the corner between the leg and the heel flap. I find it best to work with DPNs here, my sock at this point would have all of the front stitches still on my 9 inch circ, and my heel flap/turn on a single DPN.
Using a free DPN, pick up two loops in the corner, then pick up one stitch in each garter ridge along right side of heel flap. (note this is just picking up, not knitting).
With a free DPN and yarn from leg of sock, knit the two picked up loops together as one, knit each of the picked up stitches and knit half of the stitches from the heel turn.
With a free DPN, pick up one stitch in each garter ridge along the left side of the heel flap, pick up two loops in the corner between the heel flap and leg.
With a free DPN, continue knitting across the back of the heel, then knit into each of the picked up stitches, working the last two loops together as one.
With a free DPN, knit half of the front stitches.
With a free DPN, knit the remaining front stitches.
You should now have your sock on 4 DPNs: needle 1 - right gusset and first half of back; needle 2 - second half of back and left gusset; needle 3 - first half of front; and needle 4 - second half of front.
Round 1- back stitches: knit 2 together, knit to 2 before end, slip slip knit, front stitches - knit even
Round 2 - knit even
Round 3 - back stitches - Knit 1, slip slip knit, knit to 3 before end, knit 2 together, knit 1, front stitches - knit even
Round 4 - knit even
Repeat rounds 3 and 4 until you have the same number of stitches on all your needles (total cast on stich count, divided by 4).
Knit even until you are ready for toe decreases.
Depending on the striping pattern, I either continue with my working yarn, or switch to a contrasting yarn.
Round 1: back stitches - knit 1, slip slip knit, knit to 3 before end, knit 2 together, knit 1, repeat on front stitches
Round 2: knit even
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until 40 stitches remain.
Repeat round 1 until 16 stitches remain.
Break yarn and kitchener stitch toe closed.
Repeat for second sock (and if your like me, match all of your stripes perfectly!)